Intimately Yours Updates

Tween Bra

2008-08-19T20:42:00.000-05:00

(This replaces the drafting photo from the first edition of Intimately Yours on page 75)

Using Woven Fabrics

2008-08-19T20:31:00.001-05:00

(New addition for the second edition of Intimately Yours)

Woven fabrics may be used to make bra cups and straps. There are a few things that need to be considered when doing so. You need to have a good quality woven such as quilting cotton, tightly woven silk, or a tightly woven charmuese. These fabrics do not have stretch so they will need to be cut on the bias. Please note that there are 2 biases on a woven fabric and both need to be checked for amount of stretch.

Please note that there are 2 different biases. You will want to use the greatest stretch to layout your bra cups. Cut one set of upper cups as shown and cut 2 set of lower cups as shown. You will also need to cut a pair of straps, DO NOT CUT THESE ON THE BIAS.

The construction will remain the same as if making a bra from tricot.

Anne’s Note: There is not enough stretch on the bias to cut the bra band from a woven use power net for the bra band.

Using Fashion Fabric

2008-08-19T20:24:00.000-05:00

(New addition for the second edition of Intimately Yours)

There are two different options when using fashion fabric. The first option is to use the fashion fabric to cover the entire bra (bra cups, bra band and straps). The other option is to use the fashion fabric for only the bra cups and straps.

Option 1 – Fashion Fabric on whole bra

Cut only one set of lower cups (top to bottom stretch) and upper cups from the Fashion Fabric

Cut only one set to lower cups (side to side stretch) and upper cups from Tricot

Zigzag one upper cup of the fashion fabric to one tricot cup and do this with all pieces so that there you have 2 upper cups with a layer of fashion fabric and tricot each to treat as one unit.

Cut two bra bands from the power net and two from the fashion fabric.

Zigzag one bra band of the fashion fabric to one of the power net do this with the other 2 pieces to treat as one unit.

Make your bra straps using the fashion fabric as in Constriction Step 13.

The components are now ready to be sewn together begin with Construction Step 1.

Option Two – Fashion Fabric on cups and straps only

Cut one set of lower cups (top to bottom stretch) and upper cups from fashion fabric and one set from the tricot.

Cut 1 set of lower cups (side to side stretch) in the tricot only

Zigzag the fashion fabric upper cup to the tricot upper cup with wrong sides together.

Make your bra straps using the fashion fabric as in Constriction Step 13.

The components are now ready to be sewn together begin with ConstructionStep 1.

Side Support

2008-08-19T20:14:00.000-05:00

(This replaces the instructions from the first edition of Intimately Yours on page 65)

Create a pattern piece using your bra band as shown. Make sure that you create a pattern piece that is ⅜” from the top of the bra band and ⅝” from the bottom of the bra band.

Cut 4 from a stable fabric such as diaper flannel, firm broadcloth or lightweight Twill

Fuse 2 pieces together with a fusing material, such as Trans Web^®, Stitch Witchery^®, Steam-A-Seam^® or Heat-n-Bond Light^®. You now have 2 pads, 2 layers thick.

Place right side of stable fabric to wrong side of bra band as shown.

Serge or use foldover elastic on the straight edge.

Pin in place and stitch down with the second stitching of the channeling – Construction Step 6.

Unfinished edges will be caught as you finish the cup, upper edge and lower edge areas

Halo

2008-08-19T19:25:00.000-05:00

(This replaces the instructions from the first edition of Intimately Yours pages 67 - 68)

A halo offers extremely soft breast tissue added support. Use a halo when a power bar and uplift are not enough support.

OUTERHALO

Using drafted upper and lower pattern pieces overlap ½” (note the dotted lines). Draft your outer halo pattern piece as shown with the solid lines. Please note the curve at the under arm is ⅜” in from the dotted line.

INNER HALO

Using drafted upper and lower pattern pieces overlap ½” (note the dotted lines). Draft your inner halo pattern piece as shown with the solid lines. Please note the curve at the neckline is ⅜” in from the dotted line.

Cut 4 of each of the diaper Flannel. Use Trans Web^® or other fusible material and fuse together 2 of the inner and 2 of the outer halos. After fusing together merge them at the center using a wide narrow zigzag.

On the inside edges: serge if possible or cover with foldover elastic

Outer edges can be zigzag basted together for ease of stitching to the bra (NOTE: serging will add unwanted thickness).

Bra cup halo is stitched to the bra just prior to the attaching Channeling Part 1.

Stitch bra cup halo to seam allowance ONLY of the lower cup seam. Place underarm corner and center front corner 3/8" below cup edges.

After stitching bra cups into band and BEFORE stitching channeling to cup/bra band seam allowance, stitch Halo to the seam allowance only of the cup/bra band. Be sure to measure ⅜” from the underarm cup and center front area to attach Halo (this must be done to reduce bulk).

The inner and outer area of the Halo does not get stitched into the upper bra cup/strap until Construction Step 11. Mark 1” down from the top of the strap on the upper cup, do not put the Halo tops higher than this 1” mark. The Halo will be sandwiched between the tricot and the “fold over” of the plush elastic. Done properly the Halo will lay in smooth to the 1” mark line.

Power Bar

2008-08-19T19:16:00.000-05:00

(Insert under Modification to the Basic Bra in first edition of Intimately Yours)

Power Bar

A power bar is used when a woman has especially soft breast tissue, or when needing to retrain breast tissue to stay in the bra cup.

Using drafted upper and lower pattern pieces overlap ½” (note the dotted lines). Draft your Power Bar pattern piece as shown with the solid lines. Please note the curve at the under arm is ⅜” in from the dotted line.

Cut 4 of flannel or other stable fabric. Using Trans Web^®or other fusible material, fuse together 2 layers for each side. Serge or zigzag the edges.

After stitching bra cups into band and BEFORE stitching channeling to cup/bra band seam allowance, stitch Power Bar to the seam allowance only of the cup/bra band. Be sure to measure ⅜” from the underarm cup area to attach Power Bar (this must be done to reduce bulk).

The armhole part of the power bar does not get stitched into the upper bra cup/strap until Construction Step 11. Mark 1” down from the top of the strap on the upper cup, do not put the power bar top higher than this 1” mark. The power bar will be sandwiched between the tricot and the “fold over” of the plush elastic. Done properly the power bar will lay in smooth to the 1” mark line.

Problem: Bra band rolls up in center front

2008-08-19T17:00:00.000-05:00

(Insert on page 50 of first edition of Intimately Yours)

Problem: Bra band rolls up in the center front

Fix: Raise center front 5/8” (this seems to be the most common adjustment we make)

Appex to Low

2008-08-19T16:54:00.000-05:00

(Insert on page 52 of first edition of Intimately Yours)

Strap Alignment with Apex

2008-08-19T16:24:00.000-05:00

(Insert on page 52 in first edition of Intimately Yours)

Shortening of Elastic

2008-08-19T16:02:00.000-05:00

(Insert on page 49 at bottom of first edition of Intimately Yours)

This will be done by measuring 3” from cup seam toward bra band back and stretching 2” of the upper elastic to fit that 3” area. Example: 15” – 1” = 14” meaning 2” of the remaining 14” will be stretched to fit the 3” band area

Stitching of Channeling

2008-08-19T15:49:00.000-05:00

(Insert on bottom of page 38 of first edition of Intimately Yours)

Using a short stitch length straight stitch 3 times almost at the edge of the channeling.

Using a narrow zigzag stitch over the straight stitching you just did to completely seal in the underwire.

Measuring Under wires

2008-08-19T15:35:00.000-05:00

(Insert on page 38 before chart in first edition of Intimately Yours)

Construction Step 1 - Bra Cup Center Seam

2008-08-19T15:19:00.000-05:00

(Insert on Page 25 first edition of Intimately Yours)

Layer these pieces in this order into 3 layer sandwich:

Layer 1: Lay the lower cup with the side-to-side stretch on your table with the fabrics right side up and the double notch at the top edge.

Layer 2: On top of the lower cup, lay the upper cup with the right side up and match the notches.

Layer 3: On top of the upper cup, lay the lower cup with the top-to-bottom stretch with the wrong side up and match the notches.

Power Net Layout

2008-08-19T14:49:00.000-05:00

(Insert on Page 23 of first edition of Intimately Yours)

Anne’s Note: If you have an odd piece of power net you are still able to “piece” your bra band. Make sure you add ¼” seam allowance; otherwise your bra band will be short.